Southwestern Utah remains one of my favourite destinations. It is a place defined by contrast, where striking red rock landscapes meet wide-open skies, warm, dry air, and a style of hospitality that feels both relaxed and genuine. It is also remarkably accessible, whether arriving through St. George Regional Airport or flying into Las Vegas and making the scenic drive north. A night or two on the Strip only heightens the sense of escape that follows.
Part of me was hesitant to visit the newly built Black Desert Resort. Set across ancient black lava fields, its scale and ambition signal something entirely new for the region. I had long held Red Mountain Resort as one of the finest spa and wellness experiences in North America, a place that offered a thoughtful balance of comfortable accommodations, nourishing cuisine, and a deeply rooted connection to the surrounding landscape. With its recent closure, I wondered what might be lost, and what might take its place.
If Red Mountain represented the past, then Black Desert clearly points to the future. Change, as we know, is not always easy.
From the moment I arrived at Black Desert Resort, I was welcomed with warmth and energy. The resort is very much alive, with staff moving with purpose, from the front desk to the valet team, navigating guests and golf carts across the expansive property. There is a sense of momentum here, of something still unfolding.
The hotel itself is striking in both scale and design, with over 700 rooms and suites planned at full buildout, many already open and operating. Interiors are contemporary and refined, with clean lines that allow the surrounding desert landscape to remain the focal point. The pool area is equally well considered, offering expansive views of the surrounding red rock and a relaxed setting to unwind between activities. Notably, the pool is open 24 hours, something even Las Vegas rarely offers. While this may appeal to some, one wonders if the desert’s natural rhythm is best experienced during its quieter, more intentional hours.
Dining is a central part of the experience, with seven venues offering a range of options, from casual fare to more elevated cuisine. Across the board, the food is thoughtfully prepared, and service is attentive without feeling overdone. Alongside golfers and caddies, I enjoyed a breakfast burrito in the morning sunshine at Club 73. In the evening, I found myself returning to the 20th Hole, a relaxed sports bar that delivers exactly what you want at the end of the day. The fish tacos and house burger were standouts, and yes, the tater tots may well qualify as a vegetable.
My room was generously appointed, with high ceilings, quality finishes, and an intuitive use of technology. An in-room tablet allowed for seamless control of lighting, temperature, television, and blackout curtains, a small but appreciated touch, especially for those adjusting to the early desert sunrise. A spacious refrigerator and well-equipped coffee station added to the overall comfort.
Black Desert is, at its core, a golf resort, home to a Tom Weiskopf-designed championship course that winds dramatically through the lava fields. Yet its location places guests within minutes of some of the most inspiring hiking in the American Southwest. Snow Canyon State Park offers immediate access to quiet trails and vivid sandstone formations, while Zion National Park, just under an hour away, delivers one of the country’s most iconic landscapes. A visit to Zion Canyon Hot Springs on the return journey provides a fitting way to unwind.
The resort is also embracing a broader wellness and recreation offering. Pickleball courts are being developed, bicycles and e-bikes are available, and the expansive layout encourages guests to explore at their own pace.
One area of the resort that truly impressed me was the fitness room. It is one of the most expansive I have encountered, offering a wide range of equipment that thoughtfully blends familiar, time-tested machines with newer, more innovative training options. There is a balance here that feels intentional, honouring what works while embracing what’s next.
A highlight of my stay was Plume Spa & Wellness. Located on the lower level of the hotel, the spa opens onto private outdoor pools and a peaceful yoga platform, creating a quiet counterpoint to the resort’s energy above. The facilities are well considered, with thoughtfully designed changing rooms, steam rooms, and saunas for each gender.
My plan was to experience the Ancient Sea Remineralizing Massage. Inspired by Utah’s ancient sea, the treatment uses the remineralizing properties of seawater to restore energy balance, reduce stress, and support better sleep. Seawater-infused oils deliver marine minerals throughout the body, while specialized techniques release tension and restore a sense of vitality.
My therapist was professional, attentive, and intuitive, tailoring the experience to my preferred pressure and ensuring a deeply personalized treatment. Plume also introduces a range of hands-free wellness experiences, integrating modern recovery technologies with more traditional spa therapies, an approach that reflects the resort’s forward-looking philosophy.
As I discovered, change can bring unexpected rewards. Black Desert Resort offered me a new perspective, one that gently pushed me beyond my comfort zone while still delivering moments of calm, quality, and connection to place.
In many ways, it captures a thoughtful balance between past and future, between what we know and what lies ahead.
I arrived with a sense of nostalgia. I left with a sense of possibility.
And I would return.
